The weather has been gloomy lately. Too muddy to work on the landscaping and so I decided to go shopping for wood. I started in Berkeley thinking I could also grab lunch at one of my favorite jaunts right across the street fro Mac Beath. After an uneventful drive I found a whole lot of nothing there. There was one beautiful piece of wenge. The problem was that I drove the truck that day and really needed a van for this massive board. Another issue was the cost, a whopping $500. I passed on it only to find that my beloved tofu house was gone and gone forever. Luckily Berkeley in packed with scores of great places to eat.
Heading north, I totally forgot to check with Handloggers in Richmond. Years ago I would find nice Tulipwood there. They have a nice operation and specialize in wood flooring.
I made it back to Windsor and he guys at Mount Storm seemed to be in good spirits. Only problem was I didn't find anything there either. But they mentioned a shipment coming in soon was expected to be big.
This is the dance I do every few months. Sometimes I come home with a huge load of wood. Other times nothing.
This inventory problem is another sign of a bad economy. Retailers in every category are in a pinch. Trying to sell existing stock while attracting buyers like us is difficult to juggle. For now, I'll call first to find out when shipments are coming in and re-check to see if they actually arrived. But in the end you never know what's going to be there until you see it. Fortunately for me I started seeing this pattern of shortages last year. So I keep a big supply of lumber in the shop. Right now I have enough wood to keep me busy for a couple of years, but cant wait to find some more.
Tip of the Week: If you know exactly what you're looking for, call the retailers and ask a lot of questions including how much things cost. You'll avoid sticker shock and wont be surprised by shortages.
Shout Out of the Week: Thanks to David at Woodcraft in Santa Rosa. This guy is energetic, knowledgeable and helpful.
Friday, February 26, 2010
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Q and A
I have received some great questions on my web-site lately. So let's address some of them.
Q: How do you get glue joints so tight?
A: Sharp saw blades are a must. I also check the fit of each joint before gluing them up. If something seems off, use a sander (any standing sander) to work out any gaps.
Q: What kind of glue do you use?
A: I use Titebond II. Plenty of working time before drying. It can take several minutes to get each piece glued up. And you don't want a glue that dries too fast.
Q: How do you cut the pieces so that the grain lines up so nicely?
A: I don't. It just looks like the grain is lined up. Sometimes it actually does.
It would take too long to do such a process. And often it seems like pieces are lined up only to find that they are not after being turned.
Q: My purpleheart turns brown. What do you use to keep it looking so purple?
A: Purpleheart is tricky. I have vessels that are brown after only a year and I have one that has stayed purple since 1998. Always look for lumber that is very bright and purple even after it has been oxidized and on display at the lumber yard for a long time.
Q: Where do you buy your wood?
A: In the San Fran bay area I go to Mount Storm in Windsor and Macbeath in Berkeley.
Tip Of The Week: Be sure to rest your joints, especially your hands,on the weekends or days off.
Shout Out of the Week: Another great job by the teams at Modern Postcard in Carlsbad, California. No better way to spend your advertising dollars.
Q: How do you get glue joints so tight?
A: Sharp saw blades are a must. I also check the fit of each joint before gluing them up. If something seems off, use a sander (any standing sander) to work out any gaps.
Q: What kind of glue do you use?
A: I use Titebond II. Plenty of working time before drying. It can take several minutes to get each piece glued up. And you don't want a glue that dries too fast.
Q: How do you cut the pieces so that the grain lines up so nicely?
A: I don't. It just looks like the grain is lined up. Sometimes it actually does.
It would take too long to do such a process. And often it seems like pieces are lined up only to find that they are not after being turned.
Q: My purpleheart turns brown. What do you use to keep it looking so purple?
A: Purpleheart is tricky. I have vessels that are brown after only a year and I have one that has stayed purple since 1998. Always look for lumber that is very bright and purple even after it has been oxidized and on display at the lumber yard for a long time.
Q: Where do you buy your wood?
A: In the San Fran bay area I go to Mount Storm in Windsor and Macbeath in Berkeley.
Tip Of The Week: Be sure to rest your joints, especially your hands,on the weekends or days off.
Shout Out of the Week: Another great job by the teams at Modern Postcard in Carlsbad, California. No better way to spend your advertising dollars.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Finishes
Every woodwooker has their favorite finishes. Today I will discuss my most recent techniques. I think it is a good idea to have at least 2 levels of glossiness in my inventory. Lately, collectors seem to like a natural low-gloss finish. But there are always some clients who want something very shiny or a finish with extra UV protection. I prefer using finishes that are non-toxic (such as oils and waxes) or at least water based (polyurethane).
Orange Oil, for example, is organic and easy to work with and it smells good for many months on a piece. Follow the directions on the can or bottle and you will have a light finish that offers some protection. But most importantly it preserves the wood in a rough way so that the finish can be changed later with no hassles. Similarly, oils are nice and light, but offer little protection to the wood. Some cleaning will be necessary to remove oil before changing to another finish.
I recommend Howard s Orange Oil products, available at Home Depot. And Tung Oil works well on exotics.
For a super high-gloss finish. Use polyurethane in many thin coats. Wet sanding in between every-other coat. And finally using a car buffer in the end. You can use as many as 15 coats.
Lately, I use 3-4 coats of H2O based polyurethane. Be sure to let each coat dry fully before applying more.
Tip Of The Week: Compare non-toxic alternatives to traditional finishes. Using scrap wood to experiment with, you may even prefer the natural products.
Shout Out Of The Week: goes to the helpful professionals at Cal Steam Supply. They are the only source for all your plumbing needs.
Orange Oil, for example, is organic and easy to work with and it smells good for many months on a piece. Follow the directions on the can or bottle and you will have a light finish that offers some protection. But most importantly it preserves the wood in a rough way so that the finish can be changed later with no hassles. Similarly, oils are nice and light, but offer little protection to the wood. Some cleaning will be necessary to remove oil before changing to another finish.
I recommend Howard s Orange Oil products, available at Home Depot. And Tung Oil works well on exotics.
For a super high-gloss finish. Use polyurethane in many thin coats. Wet sanding in between every-other coat. And finally using a car buffer in the end. You can use as many as 15 coats.
Lately, I use 3-4 coats of H2O based polyurethane. Be sure to let each coat dry fully before applying more.
Tip Of The Week: Compare non-toxic alternatives to traditional finishes. Using scrap wood to experiment with, you may even prefer the natural products.
Shout Out Of The Week: goes to the helpful professionals at Cal Steam Supply. They are the only source for all your plumbing needs.
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